That's the through-line of this whole trip: strangers who became, however briefly, friends. The volcanoes and ruins are what you come for. The people are what you remember.

Understanding the Difference Between Looting, Trade, and the History We Choose to Forget When news broke about a robbery at the Louvre, social media did what it always does, it erupted. Some people celebrated the idea of “reclaiming” artifacts, saying it was justice for colonial theft. Others condemned it outright. The truth, as always, lies somewhere in the middle. Not every artifact in a European museum or royal collection was stolen. Some were violently looted. Others were